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AYUTTHAYA · THAILAND

Brick chedis, river temples, the old capital.

An hour and a half up the river from Bangkok: the ruined capital of old Siam, a temple-strewn island of brick chedis and weathered Buddhas. Day trips, river cruises, bike loops and the tours that string them together.

Best Of Ayutthaya Where to Start

Why you come north

What you came to Ayutthaya for.

You can photograph a temple in any Thai city. None of them are this: a whole royal capital, sacked in 1767 and left standing. The brick wats, the great chedis, and the river that still ties them together.

On foot

The brick temples

A whole capital fell here in 1767 and was never built over. Wat Mahathat still cradles the sandstone Buddha head wrapped in fig-tree roots. Wat Ratchaburana has a crypt and a prang you can climb inside. Walk it and the scale of old Siam lands.

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The royal heart

The great chedis

Inside the old palace grounds the three bell-shaped chedis of Wat Phra Si Sanphet still stand in a row. Close by sit the giant bronze Buddha of Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit and the reclining Buddha at Wat Lokayasutharam. The UNESCO core, easy to cover in a day.

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By river

Arrive by water

Ayutthaya is an island, ringed by three rivers, and the grand way in is still the boat. Cruise up the Chao Phraya from Bangkok, or loop the island to reach Wat Chaiwatthanaram, the riverside temple that turns to gold at sunset.

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Getting there

How to do Ayutthaya from Bangkok.

It’s about 80km north, and there are four ways to make the trip. Pick the one that fits your day.

Easiest

A guided day tour

A coach or minivan collects you at your hotel, a guide walks you through the big temples, lunch is sorted, and you’re back by evening. The no-logistics option.

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Most scenic

Up the river

Cruise one way along the Chao Phraya, usually with a buffet on board, and let the coach handle the other leg. The slow, grand approach the old court used.

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Your own pace

A private car and guide

Your own driver, your own running order, as long as you like at each wat. Best for families, small groups, or anyone who hates being rushed past a ruin.

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Cheapest

By train

The old northern line runs from Bangkok to Ayutthaya for pocket change in under two hours, then a short cross-river ferry and a rented bike to the ruins. The DIY adventure.

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The classic day trip

Start with the day everyone takes.

If you’ve only got one day, this is the Ayutthaya run most travellers make from Bangkok.

By tour type

Or pick how you want to see it.

Cycle the ruins if you want to go slow. A tuk-tuk if you want a driver. A river cruise up from Bangkok if you want the scenic way in. Coach day trips, sunset tours, private guides, and the rest.

Wat Chaiwatthanaram silhouetted against a glowing sky at sunset in Ayutthaya

Golden hour

Sunset at Wat Chaiwatthanaram.

The Khmer-style prang on the west bank is the shot every photographer waits for. As the light drops, the towers fall to silhouette over the river and the whole skyline glows. Reach it by boat, or stay into the evening once the day-trippers have gone.

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Once you’re there

Getting around the ruins.

The temples are spread across a flat island, so the how matters. Rent a bike and ride between them, hire one of the round local tuk-tuks for the day, or trade the wats for an elephant village and an ATV track. Three good ways to spend the hours on the ground.

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One more stop

Beyond the old capital.

Most day trips pair the ruins with a second stop. Bang Pa-In for the royal summer palace, Lopburi for the monkeys among the prangs, Ang Thong for the giant golden Buddha, or the railway market that folds up as the train rolls through.

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